JM Landels: Writer, Ritter, Wrangler

Over the past dozen weeks or so I’ve written posts detailing the requirements for our Horsemanship Level 1.  If you read through those posts, look at the relevant chapters of the Manual of Horsemanship, and attend at least three Horsemanship classes in which you have the opportunity to practice handling, grooming and tacking up, you have a pretty good chance of passing the assessment.  To review the material use the ‘horsemanship 1’ tag to search.

Riding is harder to learn cerebrally.  Everyone comes to the saddle with different experiences, body types, fitness and mindsets.  On average, a beginner with no prior riding experience will progress enough in 9 – 12 lessons to pass a Level 1 Riding test.  Some people need fewer lessons to achieve that goal, and some need many more.  As I talked about in this post on equitation from last year, so much of riding is about feel, which must be learned from experience.

An exemplary rider position for the cross-country course

That doesn’t mean, however, there’s nothing to be learned from reading, watching and listening.  So with that in mind, lets take a look at the first requirements for Riding 1.

1. Adjust stirrups and girth from the ground, put reins over horse’s head

Pretty simple, right?  And in truth, most people get 9s or 10s in this section. However, until this is second nature to you, there are a lot of points to remember.

Before you mount, run this checklist in your head:

1. Adjust both stirrups to the same length

2. Run BOTH stirrups down (many people forget the stirrup on the off side).

3. Adjust the girth.  In general it needs to go up a hole or two before getting on, as we don’t tighten it all the way in the crossties.

4. Put the reins over the horse’s head without spooking the horse or leaving a rein hung up on the ear or bit.  Believe it or not, I’ve seen more than one candidate forget to put the reins over entirely, which leaves you in a bit of a one-sided reining situation once mounted.

For visual demonstration here are Ally and Noah again, on adjusting stirrups:

And here’s a video on tightening the girth and putting the reins over using the ‘jump-rope’ and regular methods.

http://www.ehow.com/video_2350098_putting-reigns-horse.html

Bonus question: what irritatingly common spelling error has eHow made on this video?

Our riding classes are taught in a 12-session curriculum, with every 4th class being a scheduled opportunity to assess or review personal areas in need of work.  With two classes a month, this means you would be fully ready to assess your Level 1 at the end of six months.  Of course any opportunity you can get to spend time in the saddle between classes will improve your riding that much more.  Private classes or leasing a horse for one or two days a week are great ways to make quantum leaps in your riding.

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in May 2012

The final item on Horsemanship 1 checklist is:

11. Demonstrate safety and common sense when working around horses

This is something our examiners make note of during the whole of the horsemanship assessment. We want to see that you are calm, confident, and sensible while handling your horse. Most candidates are very good at staying clear of the kicking zone and handle the horses well.  However marks are often lost for these common mistakes:

• Horse is unsecured at some point.  For example, the candidate has not kept the connection of arms and halter around the horse’s neck while switching from bridle to halter or vice versa.
• Lead rope coiled around hand or dragging on the ground while leading.  The first could cause broken fingers; the second is a tripping hazard for handler and horse.
• Reins hanging down to ground.  Not just a tripping hazard, but could also cause a broken bridle or an injured mouth if the horse steps on them.
• Human feet in danger of being stepped on, either when leading or picking hooves.
• Stirrups not run up when leading the horse.  This could spook a horse when the stirrups bang against his sides, or get caught in doors and gates.

While we don’t give specific turn-out marks at this level, your own attire should be safe as well.  This includes:

• closed-toe footwear to prevent foot injuries
• well-fitting clothing: no loose or flowy bits to spook horse or snag on tack
• long hair tied back
• minimal and safe jewelry: necklaces worn inside shirt; no dangly earrings or large rings
• gloves available

For a good review of safe handling techniques with a tied horse, we can revist Ally and Noah

Bonus Question: How could you improve the way Noah is tied?

This brings us to the end of the Horsemanship 1 series of blog posts.  If you are planning to assess in the near future you can go back and review them all by selecting the ‘horsemanship level 1’ tag. Even if you’re looking at level 2 or higher, these make a good pre-assessment review, as all the material builds on this base.

Next week I’ll start a series of posts focussing on riding tips.

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in May 2012

Aside from food, which was covered in last week’s post, a horse needs shelter and security.  These topics were both covered in previous posts (see links). For the Horsemanship 1 test we ask about

10. Stabling: needs and habits of the horse

Along with reference to food, secure fencing, and shelter, we want to see candidates mention the need for regular exercise, health and hoof care, and care for the horse’s mental state.  Horses are creatures of habit, and are much more content with a regular routine.  They are also herd animals, so need companionship, and are usually happier in their work when they have formed a good relationship with their riders and handlers.

At this level we are not looking for a thorough knowledge of stabling practices, farriery, vet care or conditioning — all that comes at higher levels in the program!

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in May 2012

Basic Feeding

First of all, go and re-read this post from January, which covers basic feeding.  There is an entire science to equine nutrition, but for Horsemanship level 1 test we ask specifically about:

9. Basic feeding: succulents, grain, roughage & water

And here are the short answers we’re looking for.

1. Water:  Horses need to drink between 8 – 12 gallons (40 – 60 litres) a day of clean fresh water. 

2. Roughage:  A horse should get the bulk of his food from roughage, either by grazing or from hay.

3. Grain: This can be fed whole, crushed, or in processed forms such as pellets or cubes.  Not all horses need grain, and too much starch can make a horse too ‘hot’ or can cause laminitis (founder).  Typical grains for horses are corn, oats & barley (COB).

4. Succulents:  A horse should have either grass or at least some succulent food such as carrots, turnips, beets or apples every day.

Bonus question: What might be another reason, aside from extra calories, for feeding a pelleted complete feed?

Next week: Stabling.

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in April 2012

After your ride, the work’s not done.  All that tack has to come off and your horse needs to be groomed again.

8.  Untack & clean bit

Once more we’ll join Ali & Noah, for a great video

Although quite complete for the untacking procedure, I prefer a more thorough grooming than this after a ride; and I always start with the feet, which lets you check the legs right away for injuries. 

Once you’ve put your horse away, rinse the bit and rub it clean with your towel or stable cloth.  This prevents food and slobber from collecting in the corners of the bit.  As well as being unsightly, ‘bit crud’ also hardens and creates rough spots which can hurt the horse’s mouth.

When putting tack away, hang the bridle by the crownpiece, with the reins looped up so as not to trail on the floor (in level 2 and up we teach ‘putting up’ the bridle).  The saddle should go on its stand with the stirrups run up and the saddle cover on.  The girth lies over that, and the saddle pad goes on top of everything, damp side up to air dry.  Clean hair out of your brushes and put your grooming kit in order before putting it away.

Next week:  Basic feeding

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in April 2012

Now that we know the names of all those pieces of leather and metal that make up a horse’s tack, we need to know how to put them on correctly.

7. Tack up (may be assisted) 

‘May be assisted’ means that for Horsemanship level 1 you should know the correct method of tacking up.  If you have difficulty with a particular portion (typically bridling) the examiner may assist you and you won’t lose marks as long as you can describe the procedure.

This is an excellent video on saddling.  Note that she’s using a dressage saddle, which has longer billets and a shorter girth than the all-purpose and jumping saddles we use in the Mounted Combat program, but other than that, everything else is the same.

The second video shows how to put the bridle on.  She uses the arm under the nose method, whereas I prefer arm over the poll.  Both methods are equally valid, and are a matter of personal (and horse) preference.

I really like these videos.  They are an excellent review, even for those of you who have moved on past levels 1 and 2.  And for those of you who are Intro to Mounted Combat assistants, or working towards teaching certification they are a great example of how to teach tacking up.

Common Errors

These are the things we notice most often in doing assessments or tack check:

• Saddle pad on backwards or upside down. The keeper straps go on the outside, and nearer the horse’s front.  If the pad has no straps it is usually slightly shaped so it is higher at the withers, and the cleaner side goes up.
• Saddle too far back. It’s uncommon to see the saddle too far forward, as it tends to naturally slide into place during girthing, but we quite often see a saddle placed too far back, so the girth is getting towards the belly rather than right behind the elbow, and the back of the saddle is pressing on the horse’s loins
• Girth not through keepers. If your saddle pad has them you should use the girth keepers or the billet strap keepers (you don’t need to use both, but tuck the billet keepers away if not using them) to keep the pad from slipping out from under the saddle.
• *Noseband outside of bridle.* This is probably the number one error.  Make sure the noseband goes underneath the cheekpieces of the bridle, and don’t forget to check both sides.
• Throatlatch too tight. There should be 3-4 fingers width, depending on the size of your hand, between the throatlatch and jaw.  The throatlatch is only there to prevent the bridle from coming off if the horse rubs it, and should not be putting any pressure at all on the throat.
• Stirrups hanging loose. Make sure your stirrups are run up before leading the horse in hand.  This prevents them from banging against his sides and startling him, or from getting caught going through a gate.  If you need to wrap your stirrups for length and they can’t be run up, simply cross them over the saddle.

Bonus question: If you have a hunting breastplate, at what point during tack-up would you attach it to the D-rings of the saddle? Why?

Next week: untacking

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in April 2012

As with points of the horse, the nomenclature of the saddle and bridle varies from the obscure to the obvious.  Item #6 on the Horsemanship 1 test is:

Identify simple parts of saddle & bridle

While it may seem a nuisance to memorize these terms, it is fairly important to know your billet strap from your browband, and your pommel from your panel.  This website, http://theorythursday.com/3_Tack.htm, covers most of the terms for level 1, and pages 275 & 295 of your Manual of Horsemanship (of which there are a few copies still available in our store) covers the rest.  The terms you need to know are:

Question of the week:  What fault would you find in the fitting of this pony’s bridle?

Answer to last week’s question, ‘What is quartering and when is it done?’:

Although I enjoyed the creative responses to this question very much, here’s the boring answer:  Quartering is a quick grooming, generally done before a ride, to ensure the horse’s comfort.  To quarter, pick the feet, give a quick once over with curry comb & dandy brush, paying attention to the saddle & girth areas, and  rub the dirt off the legs and face with your hands.  You would also want to pick out any bits of shrubbery from the mane and tail before you’re seen in public.

A full grooming is best done after a ride, when the pores are open and the scurf comes to the surface of the coat more easily.

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in April 2012

Grooming the horse is one of the most important skill sets a rider needs to have.  It allows you to check your horse for injuries, helps increase the circulation to his skin and muscles, prevents chafing from dirt under the tack, improves his appearance, and provides valuable bonding time. As you progress through your Horsemanship levels you will be expected to know how to perform a complete grooming, which can take up to an hour.  The requirements for level one are simpler:

5. Groom horse using basic grooming tools (dandy brush, curry comb, hoof pick) 

Using these few tools you can ready your horse for riding and ‘set him fair’ afterwards.

1. Begin with the hoof pick, starting at the horse’s near (left) fore, facing the rear.  Slide your hand down the back of her leg, squeezing the fetlock joint or tugging on the fetlock if she doesn’t pick up her foot immediately.  Hold the hoof by the toe, and keep your own feet parallel and away from her body.  Gently remove packed mud and debris from the hoof, making sure to thoroughly clear out the deep hollows on either side of the frog.  Take care not to damage the soft frog, or scrape too much on the sole of the foot.  Repeat, working your way around the horse counterclockwise.

2. Use the rubber curry comb in firm circular motions, starting near the top left of the horse’s neck, and working back towards the tail.  Only use the curry comb on large muscles, avoiding bony or sensitive areas such as the spine, face, lower legs and belly.

3. Again starting near the head, sweep the dandy brush in the direction of hair growth, flicking at the end of each stroke to lift off dirt, hair and dander.  Only use a soft-bristled dandy brush on the lower legs — if you have a stiff-bristled brush use your hand or a body brush instead to clean legs, face and belly.  The curry comb and dandy brush can be used at the same time, one in each hand.

Our horses spend much of their time outside, so we do not use the body brush on the coat with every grooming, as it removes oils that protect the coat and skin.

This video provides an overview of a full grooming, and good tips for any type of grooming.

Some notes:

• This video shows using the dandy brush first to remove already loose hair and dust.  I would consider this a waste of time, since you’ll need to brush off hair stirred up by the curry comb anyway.  However, a shedding blade is a good first tool at this time of year!
• Many types of conditioners plug horses’ pores, so they should be used sparingly, not at every grooming.  Vegetable oil makes a good tail detangler and is better for the skin in non-show situations.
• Strapping (hitting the muscles to promote tone) is controversial, should only be done by an experienced groom, and only AFTER exercise.
• It is best not to overuse hoof oil.  Although it makes the foot look nice, it actually interferes with the moisture balance of the hoof, which is meant to be dry on the outside and moist inside.

Question of the Week:  What is quartering and when is it done?

Next week: Parts of the saddle and bridle.

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in March 2012

Remember last week how I couldn’t find a decent video of leading a horse?  That was because I didn’t search ‘how to tie your horse’.  Go figure.  At any rate, here is a very good video of leading the horse:

As a bonus, it includes the quick release knot, which is item #4 on your Horsemanship 1 checklist.

However, since the rope in the video is a little hard to see, check out these diagrams as well:

http://www.newrider.com/Starting_Out/Getting_Ready/quick_release_knot.html

One caveat:  the above site recommends feeding the loose end of the rope through the loop for a horse that knows how to untie the knot.  DO NOT DO THIS! It defeats the purpose of the quick release knot.  Instead, feed the bight (middle) of the free end through to create a second (and 3rd, 4th, as needed) loop as demonstrated in the top video.  This makes a daisy chain of quick release knots that come free with a single pull.

This week’s bonus question:  What is the other meaning of ‘tying up’ in the equine world?

The answers to last week’s  ‘what’s wrong with this picture’ question:

1. Leading from the off side.  Always lead from the near (left) side where possible
2. Excess lead rope wrapped around hand. Never wrap the rope around the hand: hold excess in figure 8 in non-leading hand.
3. Holding the rope too close to the clip.  A 6-10′ distance is most effective.
4. Turning the horse towards himself.  Turn the horse away from you where possible.

Next week: Simple Grooming

Originally posted on Academie Duello’s blog in March 2012

Leading your Horse

Having caught and haltered your horse, the next step is:

3. Lead horse out of stall or paddock, lead at the walk

There is a surprising dearth of good videos on this very simple topic.  The best I found was this:

The handler in this video is careful to walk at arm’s length from the horse’s shoulder, and correctly does not loop the rope around her hand.  However, I’m not a big fan of stud chains.  As the name implies, they are intended for use with fractious stallions, and can be helpful with an extremely excitable horse.  I would only use them in specific situations, and never as an everyday tool, since they are painful and can harm the horse if used regularly or incorrectly.

Here’s what we are looking for when you lead your horse for the Horsemanship 1 test:

1. When exiting the paddock, hold the gate and let the horse walk around you so the gate doesn’t bump or spook him.  Close the gate.

2. Lead from the horse’s left (near) side, about an arm’s length out from his shoulder, so he doesn’t step on you.

3. Your right hand should be 6-10″ below the clip of the lead rope. Choking up on the lead rope may give an illusion of more control, but in fact gives the horse more leverage if he were to lift his head and try to drag you around.

4. The excess rope is held in the left hand in a figure 8 or peanut shape, not looped around the hand.  This allows you to let go of the rope safely if your horse bolts or rears.  (Never try to use your strength against a horse’s — he’s heavier and stronger.  Let him go, and catch him when he’s calm).

5.  Your horse should halt when you halt and walk on when you walk.  When turning the horse always turn the horse away from you if possible to avoid being stepped on.

I couldn’t find a single video that showed all these steps (note to self: time to start filming at Red Colt for Duello TV?).  However I did find a lot showing what not to do. For the bonus question this week, list everything wrong in this video:

next week: the quick release knot